Downtrodden? Not At Didyoumakethat Towers!

Reproduced by permission of Mark Bush

Whilst in Skiathos, my holiday reading included the novel Tigers In Red Weather. This book is good. Oh, it’s soooooo good. It’s the perfect beach read – intriguing characters, sexual tension, a murder and plenty of chilled martinis. What more could a person ask for? Oh, and there were bits of sewing.

Now, I tend to get annoyed with how sewing and knitting are sometimes portrayed. I began grinding my teeth when the ditzy character in Tigers In Red Weather sewed her own clothes. Oh, here we go again, I thought. Sewing as shorthand for the downtrodden. But then I had to change my mind when her headstrong, sexy, wealthy cousin also got a dress made. Notice the emphasis on ‘got’ – I have no doubt she commissioned a dressmaker when she decided to use some beautiful fabric embroidered with golden tigers. Still, sewing was being used as a motif for something other than oppression. This had to be a good thing.

I started thinking about sewing and knitting used as cultural shorthand. The opening image is a portrait from the National Portrait Gallery’s annual BP Portrait Award. If you’ve never checked out this exhibition, you should! It’s free and stimulating and the NPG has a bar/restaurant with staggering views across London. I love Mark’s portrait, don’t you? That aggressive stare at the viewer. I don’t think this person is oppressed, do you?

Where else had I seen sewing or knitting featured? I’d cheered recently to see a character on Eastenders using her sewing machine  - good! But then I remembered the rows of frustrated factory machinists who have sewn knickers for decades on Coronation Street – bad! (Apologies to international readers who may be familiar with neither Eastenders nor Coronation Street. Think of them as the UK versions of Dallas and Dynasty. Um, er … without the shoulder pads. And more of the grey skies.)

The Craftivist Collective has successfully subverted the perceived gentleness of craft in order to get across political messages. As the founder, Sarah, says in this interview, ‘stitching a hankie is a powerful way of lobbying your MP’. Below is me embroidering at a Craftivist event. Hmmm. I don’t look downtrodden, either.

But sewing and knitting are my hobbies. My choice. I am aware that when some people meet me and hear what I do, they give me what can only be described as a pitying glance. Aw, the poor, deluded fool. Doesn’t she have anything better to do? I do so enjoy the moment during conversation when they realise I have a brain in my head. Nothing more satisfying than watching an individual forced to rapidly adjust their preconceptions. Yes, I am an intelligent, educated and independent woman who knits! Sorry to rock your entire notion of the world!

What do you think? Obviously, there are complex socio-historical reasons behind why mass culture stumbled upon sewing and knitting as shorthand for oppression. I ain’t gonna claim that I’m clever enough or educated enough to understand this topic completely! But I do still grind my teeth when someone shows a person sewing or knitting and we’re meant to think, ‘Ah. Downtrodden.’ Why can’t we think, ‘Ah. Inspired!’

Double Gauze – You NEED This In Your Life

There’s nothing like a week in the sun to reveal which of your makes really work. Let me tell you, double gauze is my friend and you should make it yours. Above and below are my two winning holiday outfits, both made from double gauze. The dress is Simplicity 1882 and I blogged about the Ginger skirt here. Each were photographed after these items were unpacked and left unironed. Not bad, I reckon. As low maintenance as outfits can come. The fabric is cool, breathable and extramundo flattering. It also has a ‘spring’ to it that suits a few creases here and there. A bit like linen, but without the potential to turn you into an OCD freak when ironing.

Double gauze isn’t cheap, but it’s definitely worth the investment. Go on, treat yourself! You can find supplies at Etsy or here, here and here. You can see other makes with double gauze here, here and here.

There’s a story behind the pristine white blouse. After this photo was taken, we went for dinner and I ordered meat balls with tomato sauce. ‘It will be a miracle if I eat this without spilling something on my new top,’ I said. No kidding. I managed to dip my left nipple straight into the bright red tomato sauce. In a panic, I patted the stain with a damp napkin. A blossoming, watery orb spread across my breast. ‘Now, you look as though you’re breast feeding and have milk leakage,’ my mum informed me. Great, I thought. The 43-year-old childless woman has imaginary leaking breast milk and a tomato-red stain to her left nipple. I wanted to hurl myself into the ocean below, but instinctively knew I’d make a mess of that, too. So instead, I turned to my ice-cream.

I wish I could say that the above embarrassment is untypical for me. But it’s not. Do yourself a favour – don’t eat meatballs when you’re wearing white.

Pyjama Party – Tofino Style!

A few readers have commented that another Pyjama Party might be nice, and who am I to refuse? How kind of Sewaholic to bring out the perfect beginner-friendly pattern just in time! Have you seen the fantastic Tofino pattern, released today?

Hundreds of us signed up to the Pyjama Party last year. To explain to new readers, we took part in a sewalong whereby people made their own set of pyjama bottoms and shared them on an agreed date in a worldwide big reveal. PJs are great for beginners and more experienced Sewists. We had the biggest laugh! I also did a series of tutorials on making pyjama bottoms, which I’ll be repeating this year starting 3 June, using the new pattern from Sewaholic.

I love this pattern, with its cute bow and wide (read comfortable) legs. Those side panels and piping details allow for some fun fabric combinations, too. So many great decisions to make!

There’s no obligation to work from this pattern. You can make any pyjama bottoms you like – for yourself, for the kids, for partners or friends. If you like, you can even sew pieces together in the wrong order, as Four Square Walls did last year.

There ain’t no rules at a pyjama party! Well, maybe one rule…

The key date for your diary is 23 June. That’s when this year’s Pyjama Party will go live and we’ll party like our mom and dad let us stay up way past our bed time. There will, of course, be goodies to win – more on that later. There may also be an opportunity for us to Show And Tell 21st-century stylee – more on that later. And if I don’t see at least one blogger jumping up and down on their bed, I will be gravely disappointed. (Note – you don’t have to be a blogger to take part. Just email me a photo of your make.)

With thanks to Experiments and Accidents

So start dreaming about fabric, sourcing your pattern and stocking up on the popcorn. Guys, we are going to have FUN!

Absolute Beginners

I started reading sewing blogs a good while before I began sewing. My mind was blown by the excellence I saw online. Someone made that jacket? For real?! But I’ll be honest – half the time I had no idea what people were writing about. Thread tracing? Muslins? FBA*s? TNT**s? What the…?! It can be intimidating.

I’m probably guilty of the same thing myself, assuming readers know what I’m talking about. My blog posts range from chatty and light-hearted to pretty in-depth when I’m getting down and dirty with a specific technique or step. Sometimes I need to shake myself and remember that not all my readers will have a flip what I’m going on about. They might be inspired, though, and want to understand more. It would be wrong of me not to help out.

So, help me help you. Are you choosing your first sewing project this very day? Should my writing work harder to help? Is there something really obvious that I’m missing because I’m too close?

Alternatively, are you an old hand who still remembers the early days? What did you want to know and were too scared to ask?

We’re all in this together, people!

* Full Bust Adjustment. Don’t worry, it took me about 2.5 years of sewing to realise I needed to do this.

** Tried And Tested. This refers to a pattern you keep going back to because it works so well for you.

The Hollyburn Skirt – More Classes!

Hey y’all. That’s how a gal from Derbyshire talks when her limbs are sun-soaked and she can barely get her fingertips to strike keys.

But there is much excitement awaiting my return to London! On 3 and 10 June I’ll be teaching more classes in making the Hollyburn Skirt at The Village Haberdashery, details here. This is the perfect summer skirt. How do I know? Because I’ve made three of them! So far…

If you’re planning a holiday of your own and need a handmade wardrobe, why don’t you visit Annie’s lovely shop in West Hampstead? Join me and others so that you can have fun sewing, learn stuff and listen to me say things like, ‘Embrace the randomness!’

Give Me A Child Until She Is Seven…

Aw, this blurry photo makes me really happy! It’s me and my ma, knitting side-by-side. I think Mum might be the second personality here at Didyoumakethat Towers. Anyone remember her showing me how to use an overlocker?

And what about when she received her Certificate of Excellence after a course with English Couture?! (True Confessions – I am deeply jealous of this Certificate of Excellence. When oh when, shall it be mine?)

Here’s a tea cosy she made:

Oh, and here’s a whole little montage I did of the two of us together at Christmas:

I feel very lucky to have a mum who taught me at a young age to knit, tapestry, embroider and use a sewing machine. Look where it’s got us! We’re still laughing and comparing pattern notes now.

Did your mum teach you how to make things? Did someone else? Do you think it made a lifetime’s impact on you? (Yes!) More importantly, are you passing those skills down to someone else? Having my god daughter sat on my knee, learning how to knit, has to be up there amongst life’s great memories.

And now I need to interrupt this blog post in order to show my mum a new (to her) way of weaving in yarns. Oh, the warp and weft of learning…

Sidenote: very interesting Guardian article on knitting and yoga here today.

The Pop Spots Shawl Pops My Clogs

Guys, this knitting pattern is awesome and then some. I love, love, love it. I began frightened. I knitted the first few rows in isolation in my hotel room, scared to have holiday makers jeer at me across the pool. ‘Look at her! She doesn’t know what she’s doing!’ But six rows in, I realised that this pattern is easy peasy lemon squeezy. And, boy, those colours really do pop in the Pop Spots Shawl.

Every time I create one of those rows  of spots I want to elbow someone and point at my work. ‘Look what I just did!’ Sadly, my elbow would probably skid across their larded flesh and my knitting and I would dive bomb into the pool. I’m not sure chlorine is good for merino wool.

In other news, you’ll be glad to hear that the Greek authorities ordered all boat owners to re-paint their vessels to match my new sleeveless Mathilde. I expected nothing less.

Knitting: Essential Holiday Packing

Of course, the most important part of holiday packing is the knitting. I’m taking materials for Loop’s Pop Shawl. There are 178 beautiful versions of this on Ravelry. I’m assured this is an easy make and I certainly hope so. This will be my sunlounger make, when I want a break from reading trashy novels.

Have you had experience making this shawl? Any tips?

Mathilde Blouse: The Sleeveless Version

Is it possible to adapt the Mathilde blouse to a sleeveless tank top? Answer? Yes! I spent this weekend doing just that.

The key to adapting this blouse is to really pare things back. I left out the facings, ignored the back button opening, shaved more of a curve into the front and back neckline and trimmed a bit off the blouse’s length. I also discovered that I really needed to add some waist shaping. If you want to wear the Mathilde as a loose tank top, you will need waist shaping. I only realised after sewing together the main pieces, but it was easy enough to adjust with some chalk and a French curve.

The facings and sleeves were all replaced with some beautiful binding tape I took home from one of our legendary sewing swaps. I procured this, I believe, at the Birmingham meet up. Isn’t it gorgeous?

If I had a Top Tip for sewing swaps it would be this: resist the allure of metres and metres of crazy print fabric. Keep your eyes peeled for the discreet little bits and pieces that your sewing friends quietly slip onto the table. The unusual binding tape, the rarely seen accessory, the vintage knitting pattern. You’ll be so grateful for them when they turn out to be your salvation in times of inspiration.

Adapting the Mathilde blouse began as an experiment with some cheap red cotton sateen bought in Goldhawk Road. The emphasis was definitely on ‘experiment’ and I fully anticipated a learning curve that ended up in the bin. I think it says a lot about this blouse that my wild interpretation is a wearable item and summer fail safe. Perfect to wear with a pair of shorts or a summer skirt. A Sorbetto/Mathilde mash up, if you will.

I’m only sorry I’m not modelling this top for you. That’s because I should be packing right now. Yes, the sleeveless Mathilde was a final, last-minute, panic make prior to my holiday. Because, after three years of sewing I woke up this morning and thought: I don’t have a thing to wear!

Make of that what you will.

Mathilde Blouse En Rouge

This is my second version of The Mathilde Blouse, made with a viscose from Stone Fabrics. I used a red cotton sateen for the cuffs and covered them with white lace I had in my stash.

I also treated myself to some beautiful red shell buttons from Liberty:

Yet again, the blouse came together perfectly. I just love this pattern, though maybe my third version should be in a solid colour so that we can actually see those gorgeous tucks in the front. Initially I was sad that I omitted to insert navy piping along the bottom of the yoke, but now I think maybe less is more. After all, we do already have white lace and red shell buttons! What do you think? Hmmm. Maybe a touch more red needed…

Have you made this blouse? How would you customise it?